Eritrea, located on the Red Sea coast of the Horn of Africa, offers a unique blend of Italian Art Deco architecture in Asmara, pristine beaches along the Dahlak Archipelago, and rich cultural heritage. This hidden gem features Africa's cleanest capital city and untouched coastal landscapes.
Cultural orientation
Essential context for travellers.
Photography is extremely sensitive — never photograph military installations, government buildings, ports, airports, soldiers, or police. Even photographing civilians requires permission. Violations can result in detention and equipment confiscation.
Dress modestly throughout Eritrea — women should cover shoulders and knees especially in Massawa's Muslim communities and at all religious sites. Men should avoid sleeveless shirts outside beach areas.
Always carry your passport and travel permits when outside Asmara — police checkpoints are common and failure to present documents can cause significant delays.
Political discussion should be avoided entirely — never criticise the government or ask sensitive questions about politics in public or with people you do not know well.
The evening passeggiata (stroll) along Harnet Avenue is a beloved local tradition — join it respectfully by dressing neatly and walking at a leisurely pace rather than rushing through as a tourist.
Religious sites require modest dress and removing shoes before entering — this applies to both Orthodox churches and mosques.
Do's and don'ts
Quick guide to local norms.
Do
- Greet people warmly with a handshake and direct eye contact — Eritreans are formal but genuinely hospitable once a greeting is exchanged
- Accept coffee and food when offered in a home or by a host — refusing is considered rude and the coffee ceremony is a special honour
- Dress conservatively throughout the country — modest clothing shows respect for local culture and reduces unwanted attention
- Carry all required travel permits when leaving Asmara — have them readily accessible at police checkpoints
- Learn a few words of Tigrinya — even basic greetings (Selam, Kemey aleka) are warmly received and open doors
- Participate in the passeggiata (evening stroll) on Harnet Avenue — it is the best way to engage with Asmara's social life
- Ask permission before photographing people — most Eritreans are happy to be photographed if asked politely first
Don't
- Don't photograph military buildings, government facilities, the airport, ports, or uniformed officials — this is strictly prohibited and can lead to detention
- Don't raise political topics or criticise the government in public — Eritrea has strict controls on political speech
- Don't display affection publicly — holding hands between opposite-sex couples is acceptable but kissing and embracing in public is frowned upon
- Don't enter a mosque during prayer time unless you are a Muslim — non-Muslims should visit between prayer times with appropriate modest dress
- Don't use your left hand to eat or pass food in traditional settings — the right hand is the eating hand in East African culture
- Don't attempt to change currency with unofficial street changers — only exchange at banks, licensed exchange desks, or hotels
- Don't assume ATMs will work for foreign cards — they generally do not, and bringing sufficient USD or EUR cash is essential
Local customs
Traditions and practices you'll encounter.
Coffee Ceremony (Bun)
The three-round coffee ceremony is Eritrea's most important social ritual, performed to welcome guests and mark important occasions. Green coffee beans are roasted fresh over charcoal, ground by hand, and brewed in a clay jebena pot. The host pours from a height to create froth.
Communal Eating
Traditional Eritrean meals are eaten communally from a shared large injera flatbread spread with multiple wot stews. It is customary for a host to place the best morsels of food directly into a guest's mouth (a gesture called gursha) — accepting graciously is expected.
Greeting Rituals
Greetings in Eritrea are extended and important. Men shake hands; women may embrace or kiss cheeks with same-sex friends. Asking about health, family, and wellbeing is expected before any business or request is raised. Jumping straight to the point is considered abrupt.
Religious Observance
Eritrea observes both Orthodox Christian holidays (Christmas on January 7, Timkat/Epiphany on January 19, Easter, Meskel) and Islamic holidays (Eid al-Fitr, Eid al-Adha, Prophet's Birthday) — often the same families celebrate both, reflecting Eritrea's remarkable religious coexistence.
Passeggiata Evening Stroll
The Italian-legacy evening stroll along Harnet Avenue between 6-8 PM is Asmara's defining social institution. Families and friends dress neatly and walk slowly, stopping at cafes and greeting acquaintances. Visitors who join respectfully are warmly welcomed into this daily ritual.
Etiquette by setting
How to navigate everyday situations.
- Greetings
- Formal handshake with direct eye contact for men; women may embrace or offer cheek kisses among friends. Always greet the eldest person in a group first. 'Selam' (Peace) is the universal greeting across all communities.
- Dining
- Wait for the host or eldest person to begin eating before starting. Use only the right hand for eating. Accept all food offered and eat heartily — leaving food untouched can imply the food was poor.
- Dress
- Smart and modest throughout — no shorts above the knee, no sleeveless tops outside beach areas. For restaurants, smart casual is the norm. Traditional dress (habesha kemis for women, smart shirt for men) is appreciated at formal occasions.
- Gifts
- Bringing a gift when visiting a home is appreciated but not obligatory. Sweets, incense, or good coffee make excellent gifts. Gifts are usually not opened immediately in the giver's presence — this is normal.
- Business
- Business relationships require personal rapport before transactions. Exchange pleasantries at length before raising business matters. Business cards are exchanged with both hands or right hand.
- Tipping
- Tipping is appreciated but not mandatory. 10-15% at restaurants, $1-2 for hotel porters, and $5-10 per day for guides is appropriate. Always tip in cash directly to the individual, not through a bill.
Useful phrases
A few words go a long way.
Selam
Hello / Peace
SEH-lahm
Kemey aleka?
How are you? (to a man)
KEM-ay ah-LEK-ah
Kemey aleki?
How are you? (to a woman)
KEM-ay ah-LEK-ee
Tsebuk
I am fine / Good
TSEB-ook
Yikenyeley
Thank you
yih-KEN-yeh-ley
Belaka (to man) / Belaki (to woman)
Please
beh-LAH-kah / beh-LAH-kee
Awo
Yes
AH-woh
Aykonen
No
ay-KOH-nen
Yikreta
Excuse me / Sorry
yih-KREH-tah
Adi sn'e iyu?
How much does this cost?
ah-DEE SUN-ee ee-YOO
Abey alo...?
Where is...?
ah-BEY ah-LOH
Tsebuk iyu
Delicious / It's good
TSEB-ook ee-YOO
Religion & spirituality
Understanding faith in Eritrea.
Main: Eritrea is roughly equally divided between Christianity (primarily Eritrean Orthodox Tewahedo Church, with Catholic and Protestant minorities) and Sunni Islam. Religious coexistence is a strong cultural value — it is common for Christian and Muslim members to exist within the same extended family.
Sites: Notable religious sites include the Orthodox Cathedral of Our Lady of the Rosary (Asmara), Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral (Asmara), Al Khulafa Al Rashiudin Mosque (Asmara), Sheikh Hanafi Mosque (Massawa), and Debre Bizen Monastery (near Nefasit).
Holy Days: Orthodox Christian: Christmas (Gena, January 7), Timkat/Epiphany (January 19), Easter (Fasika), Meskel/Finding of the Cross (September 27). Islamic: Eid al-Fitr, Eid al-Adha, Moulid. National: Independence Day (May 24), Martyr's Day (June 20).
Conversations: Avoid asking which religion a person practices as it can be intrusive — Eritreans consider religious identity private. Never make political statements connecting religion to conflict or comparing Eritrean Christianity and Islam negatively. Government and religion are carefully separated topics.