For travelers willing to cross to North Tarawa by boat, Buariki village offers simple wooden guesthouses in a stunning, undeveloped environment. No running water (rainwater collected), solar lighting, and meals from the sea and gardens. Sleeping here is genuinely stepping back in time — an extraordinary budget experience for the adventurous.
The North Tarawa Village Guesthouse in Buariki occupies the northernmost village on North Tarawa, the undeveloped upper half of Tarawa atoll that stands in complete contrast to the government offices and causeway infrastructure of South Tarawa below. Reaching Buariki requires two stages: first, a short boat crossing from Buota at the northern tip of South Tarawa across the channel that separates the two Tarawas — a journey of roughly 20 minutes in a local outboard vessel — and then a further boat transfer northward along the western lagoon shore of North Tarawa to Buariki village itself. The total journey from South Tarawa's Bairiki hub takes around two to three hours depending on tides and vessel availability. Crossings can be arranged through Nemat Resort at the South Tarawa end or through the Kiribati Tourism Office.
Buariki village represents an extraordinary survival of traditional Pacific atoll life. There are no paved roads, no motor vehicles, and no commercial establishments. The village relies on rainwater collected in tanks, solar lanterns for evening light, and fishing and garden cultivation for most of its food supply. The guesthouse consists of simple wooden sleeping quarters — raised timber frames with pandanus-leaf walls and roofing, sleeping mats on the floor, and mosquito nets. These are not the conditions of a budget hotel but the natural domestic standard of Buariki, and guests who arrive with this understanding find the experience profound rather than uncomfortable.
Meals are provided with the accommodation and represent genuine village subsistence cooking: fish from the reef and lagoon prepared over open fires, rice and coconut, taro and breadfruit in season, and whatever the sea and garden have provided that day. Eating at Buariki is eating as the community eats.
The outer reef edge of North Tarawa off Buariki provides excellent snorkeling in water of exceptional clarity, undisturbed by the boat traffic and human activity that affects South Tarawa's reefs. Sea turtles, reef sharks, and abundant fish life are regularly encountered. The lagoon side offers calm paddling by traditional outrigger canoe. The complete silence at night — broken only by surf, wind, and the sounds of the village — and the extraordinary star visibility away from any light pollution are among the most commented-upon aspects of staying at Buariki.
The guesthouse is appropriate only for travelers who are genuinely comfortable with off-grid conditions, who can adapt to shared living with a village community, and who approach the experience with cultural respect and curiosity rather than resort expectations.
Amenities
- meals included
- solar lighting
- traditional setting
- beach access
- cultural experience
Location
Buariki, North Tarawa, Kiribati
1.5180, 172.9630 View on map
Highlights
- Off-grid village accommodation in a traditional pandanus-leaf structure on an undeveloped Pacific atoll
- Extraordinary outer-reef snorkeling in clear, undisturbed water with turtles and reef sharks
- Village subsistence meals — freshly caught fish, coconut, taro, cooked over open fire
- Complete absence of roads, vehicles, and commercial activity — one of the quietest places in Kiribati
- Exceptional dark-sky stargazing with no light pollution from the outer atoll
Tips for visiting
- Arrange the crossing in advance through Nemat Resort or the Kiribati Tourism Office — unannounced arrivals at Buariki are not appropriate and boats do not always make the crossing on a fixed schedule.
- Pack everything needed for the stay: any medications, snacks, insect repellent, sunscreen, and drinking water beyond what the village supplies.
- A waterproof bag or dry sack is essential for the boat transfer, which can be wet in choppy conditions.
- Tide timing affects boat crossings; confirm departure times with whoever arranges the transfer as tidal conditions on the flats can delay travel.
- Bring cash — there are no shops, no card facilities, and no ATMs anywhere on North Tarawa.
- Leave before conditions deteriorate if wet season squalls are forecast; North Tarawa crossings are weather-dependent and delays of a day or more are possible.
Accessibility
North Tarawa is inaccessible to travelers with significant mobility limitations. Reaching Buariki requires boarding small open boats across open water, walking on uneven coral and sand surfaces, and managing without any accessibility infrastructure. The village guesthouse has no adapted facilities of any kind.
Visit, book or contact
Frequently asked questions
How do visitors arrange the crossing to Buariki?
The crossing is best arranged through Nemat Resort at the South Tarawa northern tip or through the Kiribati Tourism Office in Bairiki (+686 75028 / +686 26157). These contacts coordinate local boat operators for the inter-Tarawa crossing and the onward journey to Buariki.
What facilities are available at the guesthouse?
Accommodation is in traditional timber and pandanus-leaf structures with sleeping mats and mosquito nets. Rainwater tanks supply washing water. Solar lanterns provide evening light. There is no electricity, running water, or mobile coverage.
Are meals included in the rate?
Yes. Meals of village food — fish, coconut, rice, and seasonal produce — are included in the nightly rate of $15–$30 per person.
Is North Tarawa accessible to travelers without prior Pacific island experience?
The experience is rewarding but demanding. It is best suited to travelers who have some experience of remote or rustic travel, who are physically capable of boat travel across open water, and who are genuinely comfortable with basic sanitation and village living conditions.