Kiribati is a remote Pacific island nation consisting of 33 coral atolls scattered across the equator. Known for pristine beaches, world-class diving, significant WWII history sites, and being among the first places on Earth to see the sunrise, this tropical paradise offers an authentic, unhurried island experience far from mass tourism.
I-Kiribati cuisine is defined by the ocean and the coconut palm — fresh Pacific seafood cooked in rich coconut milk, supplemented by taro, breadfruit, and pandanus fruit. The national dish ika boi (fish simmered in fresh coconut milk) captures the essence of the cuisine: simple, fresh, and deeply flavoured. The relative isolation of Kiribati means food retains its traditional character with minimal outside influence, though Chinese, Filipino, and international restaurants have emerged in South Tarawa. Eating here is as much a cultural experience as a culinary one — the best meals are in local homes and modest restaurants, not hotel dining rooms.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Kiribati.
Ika Boi
Kiribati's defining dish — fresh reef fish or tuna simmered gently in fresh coconut milk until silky and fragrant. The coconut milk is always freshly pressed, giving the dish a sweetness and creaminess impossible to replicate with canned milk. Simple, pure, and unforgettable.
Where to try: Babes Place (best version), local home cooking, Betio market food stalls
Price: $10-18
Palu Sami
A traditional Pacific dish of young taro leaves wrapped around coconut cream and corned beef (or fish), then baked in an earth oven until the leaves are tender and the filling creamy. The best palu sami is cooked in an underground umu oven which gives it a smoky earthiness.
Where to try: Babes Place, traditional family cooking, special occasions and festivals
Price: $10-15
Coconut Crab (Te Ugong)
The largest land arthropod in the world, the coconut crab is Kiribati's greatest culinary luxury. These massive crabs climb coconut palms and feed on the flesh, developing extraordinary flavour. Must be ordered 24 hours in advance at Babes Place — one of the most memorable meals in the Pacific.
Where to try: Babes Place (advance booking essential: +686 21468), seasonal availability
Price: $35-55
Fresh Tuna Sashimi
The Pacific tuna caught in Kiribati waters is among the finest in the world — firm, deep red, and intensely flavoured. Amms Restaurant in South Tarawa serves tuna sashimi of extraordinary quality, often caught the same morning. A revelation for seafood lovers.
Where to try: Amms Restaurant, The Captain's Table, Otintaai Hotel Restaurant
Price: $18-28
Breadfruit (Te Mai)
A Pacific staple in Kiribati, breadfruit is available grilled, fried, boiled, or baked throughout the year. At markets it is sold cheaply as a street snack — the grilled version has a wonderful starchy sweetness similar to fresh bread, while the fried version is crispy and satisfying.
Where to try: Betio Market, Causeway Vendors, market food stalls
Price: $1-3
Grilled Fresh Fish with Coconut Rice
The simplest and most satisfying meal in Kiribati — a whole reef fish grilled over coconut husks until charred on the outside and moist within, served with coconut-infused rice. Available at market stalls, Paradise Grill, and most mid-range restaurants.
Where to try: Paradise Grill, Mary's Motel Restaurant, Amms Restaurant
Price: $10-18
Young Coconut (Te Ni)
Fresh young coconut sold by roadside vendors throughout South Tarawa is both a food and a drink — the vendors hack off the top with a machete so you can drink the refreshing water, then scoop out the soft young flesh. Essential daily hydration in the equatorial heat.
Where to try: Roadside vendors, Causeway Food Vendors, Betio Market
Price: $1
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
The Captain's Table
South Tarawa's most upscale dining experience offering fresh seafood, imported steaks, and international cuisine in a romantic waterfront setting. Known for excellent service, extensive wine selection, and beautiful sunset views. Reservations recommended, especially on weekends.
Bairiki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Babes Place
A South Tarawa institution known for authentic I-Kiribati cuisine using locally-sourced ingredients. The menu features fresh fish, coconut crab (when available), taro, breadfruit, and other traditional dishes. Family-run with warm hospitality and recipes passed down through generations.
Betio, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Chatterbox Cafe
Friendly cafe popular with locals and expats for coffee, light meals, and snacks. Known for good sandwiches, fresh pastries, and the best coffee in South Tarawa. Air-conditioned with Wi-Fi, making it a great spot to escape the heat and catch up on emails. Relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
Bikenibeu, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Betio Night Market Stalls
Every evening, street vendors set up under umbrellas in Betio serving island favorites. Try fried taro, breadfruit chips, grilled fish skewers, fried bananas, and fresh coconuts. Authentic local experience at incredibly low prices. Cash only, arrive before 9 PM for best selection.
Betio Town Center, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Café @ Parliament
Small cafe at the Parliament building complex serving coffee, tea, cold drinks, and light snacks. Beautiful views overlooking the lagoon, especially at sunset. Popular spot for a drink after touring the Parliament grounds. Air-conditioned indoor and outdoor seating.
Ambo Island, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Otintaai Hotel Restaurant
Upscale hotel restaurant blending traditional I-Kiribati ingredients with international cooking techniques. The menu features creative dishes incorporating fresh local seafood, taro, breadfruit, and coconut alongside international favorites. Elegant atmosphere with air conditioning and attentive service.
Bikenibeu, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Mary's Motel Restaurant
Popular restaurant serving both comfort food and I-Kiribati specialties in a relaxed setting. Known for generous portions, reliable quality, and friendly service. The diverse menu ensures everyone in your group will find something they enjoy. Air-conditioned dining room is a welcome respite from the heat.
Bairiki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Ocean Breeze Restaurant
Casual eatery serving simple but tasty local and Chinese food at budget-friendly prices. Popular with locals for lunch. Try the fried rice, grilled fish, or local curry. No-frills environment but clean, fast service, and good value for money.
Bairiki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Cafe & Bakery
Island Breeze Cafe
Cozy cafe and bakery serving fresh pastries, cakes, sandwiches, and coffee. Popular breakfast spot with locals and expats. Try the coconut bread and fresh fruit juices. Air-conditioned with Wi-Fi. Good place to start your day or take a mid-afternoon break.
Bairiki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Island Breeze Cafe
A small, friendly cafe near the Bairiki administrative area serving espresso coffee (imported beans), cold coconut drinks, fresh papaya juice, and simple snacks including fried eggs and toast. Popular with government workers and expats who need a quality coffee fix in the mornings.
Bairiki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Local Food
Bairiki Market Food Stalls
Small food stalls around Bairiki market serve simple local meals - rice with fish, chicken curry, and traditional dishes. Very local atmosphere, tiny prices, and authentic I-Kiribati home cooking. Adventurous eaters will be rewarded with genuine flavors.
Near Bairiki Market, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Bairiki Market Food Stalls
The food stall section at Bairiki Market offers hot cooked lunches throughout the day — plate meals of rice with fish, taro, breadfruit, and vegetables sold by local women from portable stoves. The most authentic budget dining in South Tarawa alongside the night market in Betio.
Bairiki Market, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Pacific & International
Amms Restaurant
Well-established Betio restaurant serving a mix of local seafood, grilled meats, and international dishes. Known for fresh ingredients, good portions, and consistent quality. The fish and chips are excellent, as is the sashimi when fresh tuna is available. Air-conditioned dining.
Betio, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Amms Restaurant
A well-regarded local restaurant in South Tarawa known particularly for its ultra-fresh sashimi — tuna and wahoo caught hours earlier, sliced and served raw with soy sauce and wasabi. The remoteness of Kiribati means the fish quality rivals top Japanese restaurants. Also serves grilled seafood platters and Chinese-influenced dishes.
Bairiki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Bbq & Grilled
Paradise Grill
Outdoor grill restaurant specializing in fresh fish, chicken, and pork grilled over coconut husks. Simple preparation lets the quality of ingredients shine. Great for casual dinners with cold drinks. Often has live music on weekends. Relaxed island vibe.
Betio, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Cafe
Sunrise Cafe
Small friendly cafe near Bonriki serving coffee, tea, breakfast items, and light meals. Convenient for early travelers heading to the airport or those arriving on morning flights. Simple menu but good quality and very friendly service. Local favorite.
Bonriki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Fusion
Matarena's Restaurant
Located near the Bairiki wharf, Matarena's specializes in Chinese and Filipino dishes with local seafood. Popular with locals and expats for tasty food at reasonable prices. Try the fresh fish prepared Asian-style or the Filipino adobo. Casual atmosphere with fast, friendly service.
Bairiki, South Tarawa, Kiribati
International
The George Hotel Restaurant
Hotel restaurant in central Betio offering reliable international and local fare. Menu includes grilled seafood, pasta, burgers, and I-Kiribati dishes. Good breakfast options. Convenient location near WWII sites makes it perfect for lunch during historical tours. Air-conditioned comfort.
Betio, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Street Food & Snacks
Causeway Food Vendors
Vendors along the causeway sell fresh coconuts, grilled fish, breadfruit, and snacks throughout the day. Great spot to grab a quick bite while exploring South Tarawa. The fresh young coconuts are incredibly refreshing in the heat. Prices are very cheap.
Causeway, South Tarawa, Kiribati
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Grilled Fish Skewers
Fresh reef fish and tuna threaded on bamboo skewers and grilled over charcoal at evening market stalls. Seasoned simply with salt and sometimes lime, these capture the pure flavour of Pacific seafood at its most accessible. Best at Betio Night Market.
Find it at: Betio Night Market (5PM-10PM daily)
Fried Taro Chips
Thick-sliced taro fried crispy at market stalls — a savoury, starchy snack similar to thick crisps. Sold by the bag for $1-2 AUD. One of the most popular and addictive street foods in Kiribati.
Find it at: Betio Night Market, Betio Market daytime stalls
Fried Bananas
Over-ripe bananas dipped in a simple batter and deep-fried until golden and caramelised. A sweet street food found throughout Pacific island markets, Kiribati's version is simple and satisfying at just $1 per piece.
Find it at: Betio Night Market, Bairiki Market food stalls
Fresh Coconut Water
Young green coconuts sold by machete-wielding vendors throughout South Tarawa. Drink the refreshing water, then eat the soft jelly flesh with a makeshift spoon cut from the shell. The essential Kiribati street experience.
Find it at: Causeway Food Vendors, Betio Market, roadside stalls
Breadfruit (Grilled)
Sections of breadfruit grilled directly over coals until charred outside and soft inside. Sold as a simple starchy snack from market stalls for $1-2. Tastes somewhere between fresh bread and boiled potato with a slightly sweet quality.
Find it at: Causeway Food Vendors, Betio Market daytime
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Betio Market
The main food market of South Tarawa and the heart of I-Kiribati food culture. The fish section has extraordinary fresh catches of tuna, wahoo, and reef fish every morning from 6AM. Fruit and vegetable stalls sell breadfruit, taro, coconuts, papaya, and bananas at very low prices.
Hours: 6AM-6PM daily
Bairiki Market Food Stalls
The food stall section at Bairiki Market serves hot cooked lunches of rice with fish, taro, and chicken curry throughout the day. Local women cook on portable stoves and sell authentic I-Kiribati home food at $4-8 per plate — the most affordable and genuine dining in South Tarawa.
Hours: 7AM-2PM Mon-Sat
Betio Night Market
Every evening vendors set up along the streets in Betio serving grilled fish, fried taro, breadfruit, fried bananas, and fresh coconuts. The most vibrant social food gathering in Kiribati, with locals and the occasional visitor sharing the evening together. Best from 6PM when it fills up.
Hours: 5PM-10PM daily, best Thu-Sat
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Book coconut crab at Babes Place (+686 21468) at least 24 hours in advance — it is worth the planning effort
Eat your main meal at lunch when prices are lower and food freshness peaks — most locals eat lightly in the evening
Always check if meals include rice — many local restaurants charge separately for rice or taro accompaniments
Cash only at nearly every restaurant except the major hotels — carry AUD notes in small denominations
Kiribati portions are generous — sharing dishes between two people is normal at local restaurants
Ask about the day's fresh catch rather than choosing from the menu — fresh fish changes daily and the best is not always listed
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | $4-10 AUD/meal | Market food stalls, night market vendors, causeway snacks |
| Mid-range | $12-25 AUD/meal | Babes Place, Amms Restaurant, Mary's Motel Restaurant, Matarena's |
| Upscale | $28-55 AUD/meal | The Captain's Table, Otintaai Hotel Restaurant (with full seafood) |