Iraq offers an extraordinary journey through the cradle of civilization, from the ancient Mesopotamian ruins to the bustling streets of Baghdad and the stunning mountains of Kurdistan. Experience authentic Middle Eastern culture, world-class archaeological sites, and warm hospitality in this historically rich nation.
Iraqi cuisine is one of the Arab world's most ancient and distinctive, rooted in 8,000 years of Mesopotamian agricultural and culinary tradition. The national dish masgouf — carp from the Tigris split and slow-grilled over tamarind-wood fire — is an experience unique to Baghdad. Iraqi cooking is characterized by fragrant rice dishes layered with dried fruits, nuts, and saffron; slow-cooked stews of lamb and vegetables; hand-rolled dolma; and fried kubba dumplings. Kurdish cuisine in northern Iraq adds mountain influences — charcoal-grilled meats, mountain herbs, and dairy traditions distinct from the Arab south.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Iraq.
Masgouf
Iraq's national dish and its most celebrated culinary tradition — a whole Tigris River carp split open, marinated in olive oil, salt, and tamarind, then slow-grilled vertically over an open fire for 2-3 hours. The slow cooking gives an impossibly tender, smoky result unlike any other grilled fish.
Where to try: Abu Nuwas riverside restaurants, Baghdad; Al-Mansour Restaurant, Baghdad
Price: $15-35 per person
Dolma
Iraq's version of stuffed vegetables is arguably the finest in the Arab world — grape leaves, onion layers, tomatoes, peppers, and aubergines are stuffed with spiced rice and minced lamb, then slow-cooked together until the flavors meld. Iraqi dolma is a labor-intensive dish traditionally made for special occasions.
Where to try: Home-style restaurants throughout Iraq; Chwar Chra Restaurant, Erbil
Price: $8-15
Tepsi
An ancient Iraqi casserole of lamb chops, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, and aubergine layered in a large tray (tepsi) and baked slowly until tender. The resulting dish concentrates all the cooking juices into an intensely flavored sauce that Iraqis mop up with fresh bread.
Where to try: Traditional Baghdad restaurants; home kitchens throughout Iraq
Price: $10-18
Kubba
Torpedo-shaped dumplings made from bulgur wheat or rice flour, filled with spiced minced meat and pine nuts, then fried or simmered in broth. Dozens of regional variants exist — Mosul kubba has a distinctive flat crispy disc form.
Where to try: Street vendors and traditional restaurants throughout Iraq
Price: $3-8
Kleicha
Iraq's beloved national cookie — buttery shortbread parcels filled with dates, walnuts, or coconut, perfumed with rose water, cardamom, and anise. Made for Eid, weddings, and religious occasions, they are ubiquitous in Iraqi homes and available in bakeries across the country.
Where to try: Pastry shops in Erbil bazaar; any Iraqi bakery; supermarkets
Price: $3-8 for box
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Saj Al Iraqi
An upscale restaurant in Baghdad reimagining traditional Iraqi cuisine with modern techniques and presentation. The menu showcases regional specialties prepared with premium ingredients, paired with an extensive wine list. Elegant ambiance perfect for special occasions.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Darbunah Restaurant
A hidden gem on Omar Bin Yasir Street bringing authentic Iraqi flavors to your plate. The diverse menu caters to all tastes with traditional recipes passed down through generations. Warm atmosphere and reasonable prices make it popular with locals and tourists alike.
Omar Bin Yasir Street, Baghdad
Saj al-Reef
A popular casual spot in Baghdad serving fresh saj bread with various toppings and fillings. The open kitchen lets you watch the bread being made on the traditional domed griddle. Quick service and delicious, affordable meals make it a local favorite.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Masgouf Stands - Abu Nuwas
A collection of traditional masgouf stalls along Abu Nuwas Street by the Tigris River. Watch as fresh carp is butterflied, seasoned, and slowly grilled over tamarind wood. This is the most authentic way to experience Iraq's national dish in a riverside setting.
Abu Nuwas Street, Baghdad
Shabandar Café
Established in 1917, this is one of Baghdad's oldest and most famous coffeehouses. A gathering place for academics, scholars, poets, and artists for over a century. Serves as a living museum of Iraqi intellectual culture with walls adorned with historical photographs.
Al-Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad
Mazaya Restaurant
Erbil's premier fine dining establishment offering sophisticated Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine. Features an elegant interior, attentive service, live music on weekends, and an extensive menu of mezze, grills, and seafood. Popular with business dinners and celebrations.
Empire Business District, Erbil
Antique Khana Restaurant
Revered by food critics as the best place to experience traditional Iraqi settings. Warm design with authentic furniture creates a nostalgic atmosphere. The menu highlights the best of Iraqi cuisine, particularly renowned for breakfast options featuring Iraqi bread and fresh ingredients.
Al-Karrada, Baghdad
Kebabchi Ali
A no-frills kebab house in Erbil that's been serving perfect kebabs for years. Simple setting but the quality of the meat and grilling technique keep customers coming back. The tikka and kubba are particularly recommended.
Near Qaysari Bazaar, Erbil
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Middle Eastern
Falafel Abu Hassan
A legendary falafel shop in Baghdad that's been operating for over 40 years. Crispy falafels, fresh vegetables, and homemade tahini sauce served in warm pita. Quick, delicious, and incredibly cheap - often a line out the door.
Al-Karrada, Baghdad
Babel Restaurant
A popular restaurant in central Baghdad serving a mix of Iraqi and Middle Eastern dishes. Known for consistent quality, generous portions, and friendly service. The mixed grill platters and fresh salads are particularly praised.
Al-Sadoun Street, Baghdad
Zeitoon Café
A trendy café in Sulaymaniyah popular with young professionals and students. Offers specialty coffees, fresh juices, healthy salads, and sandwiches. The rooftop seating area provides nice city views and relaxed atmosphere.
Salim Street, Sulaymaniyah
Papparoti Café & Restaurant
A modern restaurant in Erbil's Ankawa district offering a diverse menu from breakfast through dinner. Features international dishes alongside Middle Eastern favorites, good coffee, and a relaxed atmosphere. Popular with younger crowds and families.
Ankawa, Erbil
Shawarma Master
A bustling shawarma spot in Baghdad known for perfectly spiced meat, fresh vegetables, and excellent sauces. The chicken and beef shawarmas are equally good. Quick service and outdoor seating area make it perfect for casual dining.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Falafel Carts - Ankawa
Several falafel vendors operating in Ankawa's Christian quarter serving crispy falafel with fresh vegetables and tahini. Made fresh throughout the day, these falafels are a local favorite for quick, vegetarian-friendly street food.
Ankawa Main Street, Erbil
Turkish
Lezzet Café
An authentic Turkish café in Erbil serving Turkish coffee, tea, and traditional Turkish sweets. The interior features traditional Turkish décor and comfortable seating. Known for its Turkish breakfast spread and authentic baklava.
100 Meter Road, Erbil
Divan Restaurant
Located in the Divan Hotel, this elegant restaurant offers authentic Ottoman cuisine with impeccable presentation. Features traditional Turkish dishes, premium ingredients, and refined atmosphere. The chef specializes in historical Ottoman palace recipes.
100 Meter Road, Erbil
Ziryab Restaurant
A well-established restaurant in Erbil offering Iraqi and Turkish dishes in a comfortable setting. Known for reliable quality, efficient service, and good variety. The Turkish breakfast is particularly popular among regulars.
100 Meter Road, Erbil
Iraqi
Oyoon Baghdad
A luxurious fine dining establishment in the Al-Sadat neighborhood renowned for its opulent decor, delectable cuisine, and breathtaking vistas of the Tigris River. Specializes in traditional Iraqi dishes elevated to fine dining standards with modern presentation.
Al-Sadat, Baghdad
Chicken Tikka House
A straightforward grill house in Erbil focusing on perfectly marinated and grilled chicken. The tikka is tender, flavorful, and served with fresh bread and salads. Great value for a satisfying meal in casual surroundings.
Dream City, Erbil
Iraqi Bakery Café
Saj Bakery & Café
A popular café chain in Iraq serving fresh saj bread, pastries, and good coffee. Modern, clean environment perfect for breakfast or afternoon tea. The za'atar saj and cheese manakish are particularly popular.
Multiple locations in Baghdad and Erbil
Samoon Bakery & Café
A casual café in Sulaymaniyah specializing in fresh samoon (Iraqi bread) with various toppings and fillings. Also serves traditional Iraqi breakfast items, tea, and coffee. Popular morning spot for locals grabbing a quick breakfast.
Salim Street, Sulaymaniyah
American
Burger Station
A popular burger chain with locations across Iraq serving quality burgers with local twists. Fresh ingredients, generous portions, and modern casual atmosphere. The Iraqi spice burger is a unique local creation worth trying.
Multiple locations in Baghdad and Erbil
Bookshop Café
Book & Bean
A unique combination bookshop and café in Baghdad's cultural district. Browse books while enjoying coffee and light snacks. Regular poetry readings and book discussions create a literary atmosphere reminiscent of Al-Mutanabbi Street's golden era.
Near Al-Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad
French
Le Jardin
An elegant French restaurant in Sulaymaniyah offering authentic European cuisine in a sophisticated garden setting. Features seasonal menus, extensive wine cellar, and impeccable service. Popular with expatriates and locals seeking European fine dining.
Salim Street, Sulaymaniyah
Fresh Juice
Juice Vendors - Baghdad Streets
Colorful juice carts throughout Baghdad squeezing fresh fruit juices to order. Especially popular in summer heat. Orange, pomegranate, and mixed fruit juices made while you wait. No preservatives, just pure fresh juice.
Various locations throughout Baghdad
Fusion
Naranj Restaurant
An upscale restaurant in Baghdad blending Persian and Iraqi culinary traditions. Features elegant décor with Persian carpets and Iraqi art, refined service, and a menu showcasing the best of both cuisines. Live traditional music on weekends.
Al-Jadiriya, Baghdad
International Chain Café
Costa Coffee Iraq
The international coffee chain with several locations across Iraq's major cities. Offers familiar coffee drinks and standardized quality. Popular with those seeking international café experience and reliable WiFi for work or study.
Multiple locations in Baghdad, Erbil, Basra
International Fine Dining
Sky Lounge Erbil
A rooftop fine dining restaurant offering panoramic views of Erbil, including the illuminated Citadel. Features an international menu with Asian, European, and Middle Eastern influences, creative cocktails, and sophisticated ambiance. Perfect for romantic dinners.
Gulan Street, Erbil
Iraqi Street Bread
Samoon Cart - Mutanabbi Street
A beloved street cart near Al-Mutanabbi Street serving fresh samoon bread with various fillings. The bread comes straight from the oven and is filled to order with cheese, eggs, vegetables, or meat. Perfect quick breakfast or snack.
Near Al-Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad
Iraqi Street Food
Kubba Lady - Karrada
A famous street vendor in Karrada known simply as 'Kubba Lady' who makes the best kubba in Baghdad. Fresh kubba fried to perfection throughout the day. Locals swear by her recipe which has been refined over 30 years.
Karrada Market Area, Baghdad
Iraqi Street Snack
Boiled Corn Carts
Traditional street carts found throughout Iraqi cities selling fresh boiled corn on the cob. Especially popular in Erbil parks and Baghdad riverside areas. Simple, healthy snack perfect for strolling.
Various locations - Parks and riverside areas
Iraqi Sweets
Sweet Treats - Zawra Park
Various vendors in Zawra Park selling traditional Iraqi sweets, cotton candy, and ice cream. Popular with families visiting the park. Try traditional sweets like kleicha (date-filled cookies) and baklava from multiple competing vendors.
Zawra Park, Baghdad
Iraqi Tea & Snacks
Tea Stalls - Safafeer Souk
Traditional tea vendors in the Copper Market serving strong Iraqi tea in small glasses alongside simple snacks. The perfect rest stop while exploring the historic souks. Many vendors have been serving tea in the same spot for generations.
Souk Al-Safafeer, Baghdad
Iraqi Traditional
Abu Shahir
A Baghdad institution known for traditional Iraqi comfort food served in generous portions. Family-friendly atmosphere with fast service. Specializes in stews, rice dishes, and grilled meats that locals have enjoyed for decades.
Al-Karrada, Baghdad
Italian
Pizza Napoli
An Iraqi-owned pizzeria in Erbil serving surprisingly authentic Italian-style pizzas and pastas. The owner trained in Italy and brings quality ingredients and techniques to Kurdistan. Casual, family-friendly atmosphere with reasonable prices.
Ankawa, Erbil
Kurdish
Family Restaurant Sulaymaniyah
A beloved family-run restaurant in Sulaymaniyah offering home-style Kurdish and Iraqi cooking. Known for welcoming atmosphere, hearty portions, and recipes that have been in the family for generations. Excellent value for authentic local food.
Mawlawi Street, Sulaymaniyah
Kurdish Café
Jiyan Café
A cozy café in Erbil showcasing Kurdish culture through décor, music, and menu. Serves traditional Kurdish tea alongside modern coffee drinks. The outdoor garden seating is particularly pleasant. Frequently hosts Kurdish music performances.
Sami Abdulrahman Park area, Erbil
Kurdish Street Food
Dolma Vendor - Erbil Bazaar
A traditional dolma cart in the Qaysari Bazaar serving stuffed vegetables that have been slow-cooked to perfection. The vendor has been in the same spot for 20 years, maintaining consistent quality and traditional recipes.
Qaysari Bazaar, Erbil
Kurdish Street Grills
Grilled Meat Skewers - Sulaymaniyah Bazaar
Multiple vendors in Sulaymaniyah's main bazaar grilling fresh meat skewers over charcoal. The smell of grilling meat fills the air. Grab skewers with fresh bread and vegetables for an authentic Kurdish street food experience.
Mawlawi Bazaar, Sulaymaniyah
Kurdish Traditional
Chwar Chra Restaurant
One of Erbil's most popular Kurdish restaurants offering authentic regional cuisine in a traditional setting. Features Kurdish grilled meats, stews, and specialties served with warm hospitality. The outdoor seating area is particularly pleasant in spring and fall.
Sami Abdulrahman Park area, Erbil
Lebanese
Layl wa Nahar
A popular restaurant in Baghdad blending Lebanese and Iraqi cuisines. Known for excellent mezze selection, fresh ingredients, and pleasant garden seating. The outdoor area with traditional seating is especially popular during cooler months.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Modern Café
Naranj Café
A contemporary café in Erbil's Ankawa district offering quality coffee, teas, fresh juices, and light meals. Modern décor with comfortable seating makes it popular for meetings and casual gatherings. Free WiFi and laptop-friendly atmosphere.
Ankawa, Erbil
Modern International Café
Café 24
A 24-hour café in Baghdad serving international coffee, fresh juices, salads, and light meals. Popular with night owls and early risers. The café's round-the-clock operation makes it unique in Baghdad's café scene.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Riverside Café
Tigris View Café
A scenic café overlooking the Tigris River in Baghdad. Offers stunning river views, especially at sunset. Serves coffee, tea, fresh juices, and light meals. The outdoor terrace is perfect for relaxing while watching boats pass by.
Abu Nuwas Street, Baghdad
Seafood
Al-Mansour Restaurant
A testament to traditional Iraqi cuisine, famous throughout Baghdad for its Masgouf - the national dish of grilled fish. The restaurant maintains traditional grilling methods and sources fresh river fish daily. Simple but authentic atmosphere focused on the food.
Abu Nuwas Street, Baghdad
Traditional Iraqi Fine Dining
Al-Khulafa
A gastronomic staple in Baghdad known for serving sumptuous Iraqi and Arabic cuisine in an elegant setting. Specializes in traditional recipes prepared to the highest standards with premium ingredients. Features live oud music and traditional décor.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Shawarma
Thinly sliced slow-roasted lamb or chicken served in flatbread with tahini, pickles, and garlic sauce. Iraq's most popular fast food found on virtually every commercial street in Baghdad and Erbil.
Find it at: Al-Karrada district Baghdad; everywhere on commercial streets
Falafel sandwiches
Crispy deep-fried chickpea patties in samoon bread with tahini, tomatoes, and pickles — Baghdad's classic breakfast street food, best eaten hot at morning rush hour.
Find it at: Morning street vendors near Al-Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad; Shorja Market area
Iraqi flatbread (Khubz)
Fresh round flatbread baked in clay ovens (tannour) by street bakers; eaten with everything from breakfast eggs to masgouf dinners. The best is bought direct from the baker, hot and puffed from the oven.
Find it at: Neighborhood bakeries and street carts throughout all Iraqi cities
Tamerhindi (Tamarind drink)
A deeply refreshing cold drink made from tamarind concentrate, water, and sugar — sour-sweet and unlike anything else. Traditional street vendors sell it from ornate brass urns.
Find it at: Street vendors near Al-Mutanabbi Street and Baghdad bazaars
Samoon with fillings
The distinctive Iraqi diamond-shaped bread filled to order with eggs, cheese, falafel, or meat — the universal Iraqi street breakfast eaten on the go.
Find it at: Bread carts throughout Baghdad and Erbil from 6 AM
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Shorja Central Market
Baghdad's vast ancient market has entire sections dedicated to food — pyramids of brilliantly colored spices, dried fruits, imported nuts, fresh herbs, and Iraqi specialty products. The spice section is a photographer's paradise and a cook's treasure house.
Hours: Daily 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM, Friday reduced hours
Qaysari Bazaar Food Section, Erbil
The food and spice sections of Erbil's ancient covered bazaar beneath the Citadel offer Kurdish specialties including local mountain honey, dried figs from Kurdistan orchards, walnuts, pomegranate molasses, and traditional dried herbs.
Hours: Daily 9:00 AM - 8:00 PM
Sulaymaniyah Bazaar Fresh Produce
Sulaymaniyah's sprawling market has an outstanding fresh produce section with Kurdistan's mountain vegetables, seasonal fruits, fresh herbs, and local dairy products. A vibrant, photogenic display of Kurdish agricultural abundance.
Hours: Daily 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Lunch (1-3 PM) is the main meal of the day in Iraq — Friday lunch is the most elaborate and social; restaurants are busiest then
Alcohol is only available in the Kurdistan Region (primarily Erbil's Ankawa quarter) and at Baghdad hotel restaurants — don't expect wine or beer in standard restaurants
Iraqi bread is baked fresh throughout the day — ask for 'khubz taazi' (fresh bread) and you may be directed to a bakery cart nearby
In traditional Iraqi restaurants, you often order by weight for masgouf or by the kilogram for grilled meats — confirm pricing before ordering
Leave room for tea — Iraqi chai is served after almost every meal as a digestive, strongly brewed and heavily sweetened
Many Iraqi restaurants don't have menus — ask what's available today ('shunu aku?') and choose from what the kitchen has prepared
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | $3-8/meal (street food, falafel stands, shawarma, fresh bread with fillings) | Street food is exceptional quality and cheap — masgouf is the only pricey splurge worth budgeting for |
| Mid-range | $12-25/meal (traditional restaurant sit-down, kebab restaurants, local Iraqi cuisine) | Most local restaurants; excellent value compared to equivalent quality in neighboring countries |
| Upscale | $40-80+/meal (fine dining at hotels, riverside masgouf restaurants with full mezze) | Premium riverside masgouf dining and hotel restaurants; rare outside 5-star establishments |