Iraq offers an extraordinary journey through the cradle of civilization, from the ancient Mesopotamian ruins to the bustling streets of Baghdad and the stunning mountains of Kurdistan. Experience authentic Middle Eastern culture, world-class archaeological sites, and warm hospitality in this historically rich nation.
Iraqi cuisine is one of the Arab world's most ancient and distinctive, rooted in 8,000 years of Mesopotamian agricultural and culinary tradition. The national dish masgouf — carp from the Tigris split and slow-grilled over tamarind-wood fire — is an experience unique to Baghdad. Iraqi cooking is characterized by fragrant rice dishes layered with dried fruits, nuts, and saffron; slow-cooked stews of lamb and vegetables; hand-rolled dolma; and fried kubba dumplings. Kurdish cuisine in northern Iraq adds mountain influences — charcoal-grilled meats, mountain herbs, and dairy traditions distinct from the Arab south.
Must-try dishes
Iconic dishes that define Iraq.
Masgouf
Iraq's national dish and its most celebrated culinary tradition — a whole Tigris River carp split open, marinated in olive oil, salt, and tamarind, then slow-grilled vertically over an open fire for 2-3 hours. The slow cooking gives an impossibly tender, smoky result unlike any other grilled fish.
Where to try: Abu Nuwas riverside restaurants, Baghdad; Al-Mansour Restaurant, Baghdad
Price: $15-35 per person
Dolma
Iraq's version of stuffed vegetables is arguably the finest in the Arab world — grape leaves, onion layers, tomatoes, peppers, and aubergines are stuffed with spiced rice and minced lamb, then slow-cooked together until the flavors meld. Iraqi dolma is a labor-intensive dish traditionally made for special occasions.
Where to try: Home-style restaurants throughout Iraq; Chwar Chra Restaurant, Erbil
Price: $8-15
Tepsi
An ancient Iraqi casserole of lamb chops, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, and aubergine layered in a large tray (tepsi) and baked slowly until tender. The resulting dish concentrates all the cooking juices into an intensely flavored sauce that Iraqis mop up with fresh bread.
Where to try: Traditional Baghdad restaurants; home kitchens throughout Iraq
Price: $10-18
Kubba
Torpedo-shaped dumplings made from bulgur wheat or rice flour, filled with spiced minced meat and pine nuts, then fried or simmered in broth. Dozens of regional variants exist — Mosul kubba has a distinctive flat crispy disc form.
Where to try: Street vendors and traditional restaurants throughout Iraq
Price: $3-8
Kleicha
Iraq's beloved national cookie — buttery shortbread parcels filled with dates, walnuts, or coconut, perfumed with rose water, cardamom, and anise. Made for Eid, weddings, and religious occasions, they are ubiquitous in Iraqi homes and available in bakeries across the country.
Where to try: Pastry shops in Erbil bazaar; any Iraqi bakery; supermarkets
Price: $3-8 for box
Top restaurants
Handpicked picks for the best dining experiences.
Saj Al Iraqi
An upscale restaurant in Baghdad reimagining traditional Iraqi cuisine with modern techniques and presentation. The menu showcases regional specialties prepared with premium ingredients, paired with an extensive wine list. Elegant ambiance perfect for special occasions.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Darbunah Restaurant
A hidden gem on Omar Bin Yasir Street bringing authentic Iraqi flavors to your plate. The diverse menu caters to all tastes with traditional recipes passed down through generations. Warm atmosphere and reasonable prices make it popular with locals and tourists alike.
Omar Bin Yasir Street, Baghdad
Saj al-Reef
A popular casual spot in Baghdad serving fresh saj bread with various toppings and fillings. The open kitchen lets you watch the bread being made on the traditional domed griddle. Quick service and delicious, affordable meals make it a local favorite.
Al-Mansour, Baghdad
Masgouf Stands - Abu Nuwas
A collection of traditional masgouf stalls along Abu Nuwas Street by the Tigris River. Watch as fresh carp is butterflied, seasoned, and slowly grilled over tamarind wood. This is the most authentic way to experience Iraq's national dish in a riverside setting.
Abu Nuwas Street, Baghdad
Shabandar Café
Established in 1917, this is one of Baghdad's oldest and most famous coffeehouses. A gathering place for academics, scholars, poets, and artists for over a century. Serves as a living museum of Iraqi intellectual culture with walls adorned with historical photographs.
Al-Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad
Mazaya Restaurant
Erbil's premier fine dining establishment offering sophisticated Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine. Features an elegant interior, attentive service, live music on weekends, and an extensive menu of mezze, grills, and seafood. Popular with business dinners and celebrations.
Empire Business District, Erbil
Antique Khana Restaurant
Revered by food critics as the best place to experience traditional Iraqi settings. Warm design with authentic furniture creates a nostalgic atmosphere. The menu highlights the best of Iraqi cuisine, particularly renowned for breakfast options featuring Iraqi bread and fresh ingredients.
Al-Karrada, Baghdad
Kebabchi Ali
A no-frills kebab house in Erbil that's been serving perfect kebabs for years. Simple setting but the quality of the meat and grilling technique keep customers coming back. The tikka and kubba are particularly recommended.
Near Qaysari Bazaar, Erbil
Restaurants by cuisine
Browse picks grouped by cuisine type.
Iraqi Bakery Café
Saj Bakery & Café
Samoon Bakery & Café
Middle Eastern Fast Food
Falafel Abu Hassan
Shawarma Master
Traditional Iraqi
Darbunah Restaurant
Antique Khana Restaurant
Bookshop Café
Book & Bean
Burgers/American Casual
Burger Station
Contemporary Iraqi
Saj Al Iraqi
Contemporary Middle Eastern Café
Zeitoon Café
French/Mediterranean
Le Jardin
Fresh Juice
Juice Vendors - Baghdad Streets
International Chain Café
Costa Coffee Iraq
International Fine Dining
Sky Lounge Erbil
International/Middle Eastern
Papparoti Café & Restaurant
Iraqi Casual
Saj al-Reef
Iraqi Grills
Kebabchi Ali
Iraqi Seafood Specialist
Al-Mansour Restaurant
Iraqi Street Bread
Samoon Cart - Mutanabbi Street
Iraqi Street Fish
Masgouf Stands - Abu Nuwas
Iraqi Street Food
Kubba Lady - Karrada
Iraqi Street Snack
Boiled Corn Carts
Iraqi Sweets
Sweet Treats - Zawra Park
Iraqi Tea & Snacks
Tea Stalls - Safafeer Souk
Iraqi Traditional
Abu Shahir
Iraqi/Arabic Fine Dining
Oyoon Baghdad
Iraqi/Kurdish Grills
Chicken Tikka House
Iraqi/Middle Eastern
Babel Restaurant
Iraqi/Turkish
Ziryab Restaurant
Italian Casual
Pizza Napoli
Kurdish Café
Jiyan Café
Kurdish Street Food
Dolma Vendor - Erbil Bazaar
Kurdish Street Grills
Grilled Meat Skewers - Sulaymaniyah Bazaar
Kurdish Traditional
Chwar Chra Restaurant
Kurdish/Iraqi
Family Restaurant Sulaymaniyah
Lebanese/Iraqi
Layl wa Nahar
Lebanese/Middle Eastern Fine Dining
Mazaya Restaurant
Middle Eastern Street Food
Falafel Carts - Ankawa
Modern Café
Naranj Café
Modern International Café
Café 24
Ottoman/Turkish Fine Dining
Divan Restaurant
Persian/Iraqi Fusion
Naranj Restaurant
Riverside Café
Tigris View Café
Traditional Iraqi Café
Shabandar Café
Traditional Iraqi Fine Dining
Al-Khulafa
Turkish Café
Lezzet Café
Street food
Local flavours at affordable prices.
Shawarma
Thinly sliced slow-roasted lamb or chicken served in flatbread with tahini, pickles, and garlic sauce. Iraq's most popular fast food found on virtually every commercial street in Baghdad and Erbil.
Find it at: Al-Karrada district Baghdad; everywhere on commercial streets
Falafel sandwiches
Crispy deep-fried chickpea patties in samoon bread with tahini, tomatoes, and pickles — Baghdad's classic breakfast street food, best eaten hot at morning rush hour.
Find it at: Morning street vendors near Al-Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad; Shorja Market area
Iraqi flatbread (Khubz)
Fresh round flatbread baked in clay ovens (tannour) by street bakers; eaten with everything from breakfast eggs to masgouf dinners. The best is bought direct from the baker, hot and puffed from the oven.
Find it at: Neighborhood bakeries and street carts throughout all Iraqi cities
Tamerhindi (Tamarind drink)
A deeply refreshing cold drink made from tamarind concentrate, water, and sugar — sour-sweet and unlike anything else. Traditional street vendors sell it from ornate brass urns.
Find it at: Street vendors near Al-Mutanabbi Street and Baghdad bazaars
Samoon with fillings
The distinctive Iraqi diamond-shaped bread filled to order with eggs, cheese, falafel, or meat — the universal Iraqi street breakfast eaten on the go.
Find it at: Bread carts throughout Baghdad and Erbil from 6 AM
Food markets
Where locals shop and graze.
Shorja Central Market
Baghdad's vast ancient market has entire sections dedicated to food — pyramids of brilliantly colored spices, dried fruits, imported nuts, fresh herbs, and Iraqi specialty products. The spice section is a photographer's paradise and a cook's treasure house.
Hours: Daily 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM, Friday reduced hours
Qaysari Bazaar Food Section, Erbil
The food and spice sections of Erbil's ancient covered bazaar beneath the Citadel offer Kurdish specialties including local mountain honey, dried figs from Kurdistan orchards, walnuts, pomegranate molasses, and traditional dried herbs.
Hours: Daily 9:00 AM - 8:00 PM
Sulaymaniyah Bazaar Fresh Produce
Sulaymaniyah's sprawling market has an outstanding fresh produce section with Kurdistan's mountain vegetables, seasonal fruits, fresh herbs, and local dairy products. A vibrant, photogenic display of Kurdish agricultural abundance.
Hours: Daily 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Dining etiquette & tips
Navigate the local food scene confidently.
Lunch (1-3 PM) is the main meal of the day in Iraq — Friday lunch is the most elaborate and social; restaurants are busiest then
Alcohol is only available in the Kurdistan Region (primarily Erbil's Ankawa quarter) and at Baghdad hotel restaurants — don't expect wine or beer in standard restaurants
Iraqi bread is baked fresh throughout the day — ask for 'khubz taazi' (fresh bread) and you may be directed to a bakery cart nearby
In traditional Iraqi restaurants, you often order by weight for masgouf or by the kilogram for grilled meats — confirm pricing before ordering
Leave room for tea — Iraqi chai is served after almost every meal as a digestive, strongly brewed and heavily sweetened
Many Iraqi restaurants don't have menus — ask what's available today ('shunu aku?') and choose from what the kitchen has prepared
Food budget guide
What to expect at different price points.
| Level | Price | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Budget | $3-8/meal (street food, falafel stands, shawarma, fresh bread with fillings) | Street food is exceptional quality and cheap — masgouf is the only pricey splurge worth budgeting for |
| Mid-range | $12-25/meal (traditional restaurant sit-down, kebab restaurants, local Iraqi cuisine) | Most local restaurants; excellent value compared to equivalent quality in neighboring countries |
| Upscale | $40-80+/meal (fine dining at hotels, riverside masgouf restaurants with full mezze) | Premium riverside masgouf dining and hotel restaurants; rare outside 5-star establishments |