Oaxaca Food Markets

Oaxaca's food markets are the center of the city's cooking tradition, with Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Mercado Benito Juárez standing a few blocks south of the zócalo in the Centro neighborhood of Oaxaca, southern Mexico. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is best known for its Pasillo de Humo, the Aisle of Smoke, where vendors grill cuts of beef, pork and chorizo over charcoal for customers who pick a cut and eat at long shared tables with tortillas, grilled onions and salsa. Nearby stalls serve tlayudas, large crisp tortillas topped with beans, quesillo and meat, along with moles in several colors, memelas, tamales and hot chocolate. Mercado Benito Juárez sells produce, flowers, dried chiles, breads and crafts, with counters offering pan de yema. Visitors will also find chapulines, toasted grasshoppers seasoned with lime and chile, mezcal tasting stalls and fresh juices. A good visit takes about two to three hours, with a meal included, and early morning is best for the fullest range of dishes and the freshest produce. Markets open around 7:00 AM and close around 6:00 PM, though many stalls shut earlier, and the busiest hours are lunch time from 1:00 to 3:00 PM. Entry is free, with meals typically costing $50 to $150 MXN. The market is crowded and narrow, with strong smoke at the grill aisle, and visitors should watch belongings. Guided food tours and cooking classes offer further tasting. Cash is usually required.