Campeche is a Gulf-coast state on the western side of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, best known for its walled capital, San Francisco de Campeche, a UNESCO World Heritage city of pastel facades, baroque churches, and Spanish colonial ramparts built to repel Caribbean pirates. Inland, the state holds two-thirds of the Yucatan Peninsula's tropical forest and the vast Maya metropolis of Calakmul, hidden inside a biosphere reserve on the Guatemalan border. Campeche receives a fraction of the visitors that reach Cancun or Merida, which is precisely its appeal.
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Guided experiences that show you Campeche through its food.
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Tour formats
Different ways to experience Campeche's food scene.
Items tours
Cooking classes
Take a piece of Campeche home with you.
Pan de Cazon Masterclass
A hands-on class built entirely around Campeche's defining dish, starting at the Mercado Principal to buy cazon, beans, tomato and habanero before returning to a private kitchen in the walled centre. Participants poach and shred the shark, fry the bean layer, press tortillas and assemble the stack before drowning it in chiltomate, then eat the result with agua de chaya. Classes cap at around eight people and the recipe card goes home with every participant.
Cochinita Pibil and Pib Earth-Oven Workshop
A half-day workshop in a village kitchen outside Campeche city covering the pib, the stone-lined earth oven that gives cochinita pibil its name. Participants grind recado rojo from achiote seed, garlic and sour orange, marinate the pork, wrap it in banana leaf and help load the pit, then press tortillas and pickle red onion while the meat cooks. The class ends with a shared meal and an explanation of how the same oven produces pibipollo for Day of the Dead.
Camarones al Coco and Gulf Seafood Class
A coastal cooking session in Champoton devoted to the dish the town is known for across Mexico. Participants pick shrimp at the river-mouth landing, grate fresh coconut, mix the batter and learn the frying temperature that keeps the coconut from burning before the shrimp is cooked, then make the sweet marmalade dip that traditionally accompanies it. A ceviche de caracol demonstration rounds out the session before everyone eats facing the Gulf.
Dulces Campechanos and Horchata de Coco Workshop
A short workshop devoted to the sweets counter that Campeche families treat as a point of civic pride. It opens with a walk through the market's confectionery stalls to identify cocada, ciricote, candied papaya and calabaza, then moves to a kitchen where participants grate coconut for cocada, boil fruit in piloncillo syrup and blend the coconut-heavy horchata that accompanies almost every supper in the city. Finished sweets are boxed to take away.
Foodie tips
Get more out of every meal.
Pan de cazon is cooked in limited batches and regularly sells out by mid-afternoon, so ordering it at the 1:30 PM comida rather than at dinner is the reliable approach
Campeche's cenadurias in Barrio de San Francisco open only in the evening from about 6:30 PM; arriving at 8 PM usually means queueing at Los Portales
The Mercado Principal Pedro Sainz de Baranda is at its best between 7 AM and 10 AM, when cochinita and cazon empanadas are freshest and the fish counters are fully stocked
Habanero salsa is served on the side rather than mixed in; asking for chiltomate instead gives the tomato-based sauce most locals use at the table
Coconut horchata in Campeche is markedly heavier and sweeter than rice horchata elsewhere in Mexico, and pairs with the salt and lard of panuchos rather than standing alone
Pomuch bread is baked from 3 AM and the best loaves are gone by early afternoon, so a Camino Real day trip needs an early start from Campeche city
Card terminals are unreliable outside Campeche city and Ciudad del Carmen; Champoton stalls, Pomuch bakeries and Isla Arena kitchens are cash-only in pesos
Food tours and cooking classes in Campeche run in small groups and are far less numerous than in Merida or Oaxaca, so booking two or three days ahead through GetYourGuide or Viator is sensible
Camarones al coco is the signature of the Champoton coast rather than the walled city, and the version served at seafront restaurants there is noticeably better than inland copies
Tap water is not drinkable anywhere in the state; aguas frescas at established restaurants and markets are made with purified water, but street carts vary