Criollo

Criollo is a contemporary Oaxacan restaurant on Francisco I. Madero in the historic centre of Oaxaca, in southern Mexico, led by chef Luis Arellano. The restaurant presents a seasonal set menu that reinterprets the culinary traditions of Oaxaca, including its moles, corn-based preparations, chiles, herbs and regional cheeses, using modern technique and careful plating. It belongs to the generation of Oaxacan kitchens that treat local ingredients and heritage cooking with the seriousness usually reserved for international fine dining, and it appeals to visitors who want a more refined counterpart to the city's markets and traditional comedores.

The mole negro set menu, priced around MXN 1,350, is the centrepiece. Mole negro is among Oaxaca's most celebrated sauces, made from dried chiles, spices, chocolate and charred ingredients through a long and complex process, and here it is presented within a sequence of courses that change with the season. Dishes typically draw on regional produce such as quelites, squash blossoms, beans, heirloom corn and local seafood or meats, and they are paired with Oaxacan flavours rather than imported luxury ingredients.

The beverage programme is built around mezcal, the spirit most closely tied to the state. A mezcal pairing, around MXN 600, matches different expressions and producers to the courses and offers a guided introduction to the spirit. Oaxacan wines, Mexican beers and non-alcoholic pairings may also be available. The dining room is intimate and calm, with an elegant but understated style; dress is smart casual and the noise level is low enough for conversation. Service follows the pace of a tasting menu, so visitors should allow two to three hours.

Reservations are required and are made through the restaurant's website. Booking several days ahead is advisable, and a week or more is wise during peak periods such as Guelaguetza in July, Day of the Dead in late October and early November, and the Christmas season. The restaurant serves an evening set menu and is closed on Monday. Prices place it in the $$$$ category for Oaxaca, though the cost is moderate by international fine dining standards. The location in the centro histórico makes it easy to reach on foot from most central hotels.