Expendio de Maíz

Expendio de Maíz is a heritage Mexican restaurant on Sinaloa in Roma Norte, Mexico City, dedicated to cooking with native and heirloom maize. The concept centres on the corn itself: varieties grown by small farmers in different regions of Mexico are nixtamalised and ground, then turned into tortillas, tlacoyos, tamales and other masa-based dishes. There is no fixed menu, and the kitchen cooks according to the day's ingredients, which gives the restaurant a strong sense of place and season. The approach reflects a wider movement in Mexico City to value native corn varieties and the farmers who preserve them.

Native-maize tlacoyos, priced around MXN 250, are among the most recognisable dishes, and the set menu of the day at roughly MXN 600 is a way to sample several preparations in one sitting. Dishes often combine masa with seasonal vegetables, salsas, beans, herbs and meats, and the variety of colours and textures in the tortillas is part of the experience. Servers usually explain the origin of the corn used, so the meal doubles as an introduction to Mexican agricultural heritage.

The dining room is informal and unpretentious, with an open kitchen feel and a mix of locals, food enthusiasts and travellers. Noise levels are moderate, dress is casual, and the pace is relaxed. Because the restaurant serves from 1:30 PM to 6:00 PM, it functions as a long lunch destination rather than a dinner venue, and it is closed on Mondays. Beverages typically include agua fresca, coffee, and Mexican spirits and wines; ask the staff for pairings with the day's dishes.

Seating is limited, so reservations are recommended, particularly for weekend lunch. Booking a few days ahead is usually sufficient on weekdays, with a longer lead time for Saturday and Sunday. Prices fall in the $$$ range, which is moderate for the quality of ingredients and the careful sourcing involved. The location is within walking distance of Roma Norte's parks and cafés, making it easy to pair with a neighbourhood stroll.