Diyarbakır is southeastern Turkey's cultural capital, anchored by some 6 km of UNESCO-listed black basalt city walls—among the longest and best-preserved in the world. Perched above the Tigris River, the ancient walled city (Sur) shelters mosques, Armenian churches, Kurdish cultural centres and bustling bazaars that have thrived here for more than 7,000 years. The city is famous throughout Turkey for its colossal watermelons, its layered Anatolian-Kurdish cuisine and the plaintive vocal tradition of dengbêj storytellers.
Cultural orientation
Essential context for travellers.
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Do's and don'ts
Quick guide to local norms.
Do
- Engage with local craftsmen in Hasanpaşa Han and Deliler Han — conversations are welcomed.
- Try to learn a few words of both Turkish and Kurdish; even 'Spas' (Kurdish: Thank you) is appreciated.
- Visit the Dengbêj House on a weekday morning to witness live dengbêj (Kurdish oral storytelling) performances.
- Support local female-run cooperatives selling kilim textiles and handicrafts in the Sur bazaar.
- Sit and take çay at a street teahouse — it is the city's social institution and an invitation to conversation.
Don't
- Do not discuss Kurdish political issues, PKK or sensitive regional topics with strangers — these are deeply personal subjects.
- Do not photograph military checkpoints, police stations or security installations — this is illegal in Turkey.
- Do not enter a mosque during Friday noon prayer unless invited; observe from outside.
- Do not wear revealing clothing (shorts, sleeveless tops) in the Sur district or near religious sites.
- Do not show public intoxication; alcohol consumption in the streets is culturally inappropriate and may be illegal in some areas.
- Do not confuse Kurdish and Turkish culture — many residents identify primarily as Kurdish and this is a matter of pride.
Etiquette by setting
How to navigate everyday situations.
Useful phrases
A few words go a long way.
Religion & spirituality
Understanding faith in Diyarbakır.
Items:
- Name
- Islam (Sunni)
- Notes
- Predominant religion; approximately 95% of residents are Sunni Muslim. Friday noon prayer (Cuma namazı) is important; bazaars may quieten. Ramadan significantly alters restaurant hours and street food availability. The Grand Mosque (Ulu Camii) is one of Anatolia's oldest and is a living place of worship.
- Name
- Christianity (Armenian Apostolic)
- Notes
- Surp Giragos Armenian Church is one of the largest Armenian churches outside Armenia, now serving the small remaining Armenian community and open to visitors. The church hosts occasional services — check locally.
- Name
- Alevism
- Notes
- A significant Alevi Kurdish minority exists in the wider Diyarbakır region. Alevi culture is reflected in dengbêj traditions and some folk music forms.