Beloved mountain walk in the Lake District immortalized by fell-walking author Alfred Wainwright, whose ashes are scattered on the summit. Dramatic rocky terrain with views over Buttermere lake.
Haystacks is a compact but characterful fell in the Lake District, Cumbria, rising to 597m between the valleys of Buttermere and Ennerdale. It gained lasting fame through the writings of Alfred Wainwright, the celebrated fell-walking author whose seven-volume Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells made him the defining voice of Lake District walking. Wainwright declared Haystacks his favourite of all the fells and requested that his ashes be scattered at Innominate Tarn near the summit after his death in 1991; the tarn has become something of an informal place of pilgrimage for Wainwright enthusiasts. The Haystacks Circuit covers approximately 10km with 600m of elevation gain and takes 4 to 5 hours at a comfortable pace. The standard route begins at the National Trust car park in Gatesgarth at the southern end of Buttermere lake, which is free of charge. The ascent climbs steeply on a stone-pitched path from the valley floor, initially through bracken and then open fellside, before crossing Scarth Gap Pass and bearing east to the summit plateau. The terrain is characteristically Lakeland: a mix of rocky paths, grassy ridges, and boggy hollows between the fell's many knobbly outcrops. The summit area has no single obvious high point but a series of rocky tops and dark corrie tarns interconnected by informal paths, requiring basic map-reading skills in cloud or poor visibility. Innominate Tarn lies just below the main summit mass and is one of the most atmospheric locations in the Lake District, its dark surface reflecting the surrounding fells on calm days with Pillar and the High Stile ridge as backdrop. The descent toward Honister Slate Mine on the eastern side of the fell offers commanding views into the bowl of Gatesgarth before a steep, loose path rejoins the valley floor road back to Gatesgarth. Streams and becks drain the lower slopes but there are no reliable water sources at the summit. Honister Slate Mine has a visitor centre and café. The village of Buttermere, 1km north, has the Fish Hotel and Bridge Hotel, both open to non-residents.
Trail facts
- Trail area
- Lake District, Cumbria
- Best season
- Late April to October; winter ascents are possible but require care on icy paths and navigation competence in reduced visibility.
Highlights
- Wainwright's favourite fell
- Innominate Tarn
- views over Buttermere
- dramatic rocky terrain
Tips for visiting
- Carry a 1:25,000 OS Explorer Map OL4 (The English Lakes: North Western area); the rocky summit plateau has multiple paths that can disorient in cloud or mist.
- Gatesgarth car park is free but holds around 30 vehicles; arrive before 9am on summer weekends to guarantee a space.
- Trekking poles are useful on the steep, loose descent on the Honister Slate Mine side of the fell, which becomes slippery after rain.
- The route can be extended to take in the High Stile ridge above Buttermere for experienced walkers seeking a longer full-day circuit.
- Midges gather near Buttermere lake from June to August in calm, humid weather; carry repellent for the lower sections.
When to visit
May through October is the primary walking season; June and September combine favourable weather with manageable crowds. Summer weekends see Gatesgarth car park full by mid-morning.
Accessibility
Haystacks is not accessible for wheelchair users or pushchairs. The path from Gatesgarth immediately involves steep rocky ascent and the summit plateau has uneven terrain with boggy hollows between outcrops. The flat lakeside path around Buttermere itself offers an accessible alternative walk for visitors unable to ascend the fell.
Frequently asked questions
Why is Haystacks so associated with Alfred Wainwright?
Alfred Wainwright, author of the Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells, declared Haystacks his favourite fell and requested his ashes be scattered at Innominate Tarn near the summit. The tarn has since become a quiet place of remembrance for Wainwright admirers.
Is Haystacks suitable for beginner walkers?
The fell is moderate rather than beginner-level. The ascent is steep in places and the rocky summit plateau requires basic map-reading to navigate in poor visibility. Walkers comfortable with OS maps and sustained uphill terrain will find it very manageable.
Can Haystacks be combined with other Lake District fells in one day?
Yes. Haystacks links naturally to the High Stile ridge to the north and Fleetwith Pike to the east via Honister. Many experienced walkers combine it with High Crag and High Stile for a full ridge circuit of approximately 15km.
Is there parking at the Haystacks trailhead?
The National Trust Gatesgarth car park at the foot of Buttermere is the standard starting point and is free of charge. Buttermere village has a pay-and-display car park approximately 1km to the north as an alternative.